I’ve never been to elBulli, Ferran Adria’s famed (but now defunct) restaurant in Spain. I’m too scientifically challenged to understand molecular gastronomy. I don’t enjoy the formality of fine dining. I’m more than happy with a one-course meal. So when Matt Kantor invited me to one of his 23-course elBulli Imitacio tribute dinners at the Cookbook Store this week, I almost said no.