"Leslieville (finally) gets bona fide destination dining" 

In a quiet Leslieville room that dark blinds shroud from Queen Street’s eyes, the pleasures come unexpectedly. Here is a shard of Spanish goat’s milk cheese that’s veined like onyx, served with creamy orange curd and a date cut into a thin disk, like a slice of sausage, and a scattering of cracked espresso beans. Here’s a drift of icy grapefruit granita on bass sashimi, crystalline sour cold, clean oceanic sweet and radiating green heat from a swoosh of burnt scallion puree....

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